William Penn, TX to Bastrop, TX 10411 mi William Penn and Independence are tiny, almost unnoticable farm and ranch towns. I see many grandiose ranch houses on hilltops, adorned with pillars and balconies. I go all the way to Burton before I find food. The Burton Cafe has been here forever and never changes. While…

Livingston, TX to William Penn, TX 10314 mi I take a short, cold ride to Onalaska on Lake Livingston, where I eat in a hot little shack on the shore. I’m lured into the library in Huntsville to answer a few emails, then I head for Novasota. The country opens up a little with ranches,…

Bon Weir, TX to Livingston, TX 10211 mi Newton offers no good breakfast prospects, so I continue to Jasper. Lots of logging going on here, but I like riding through the bright green pine forests in the sun. In Jasper I supplement my groceries. The stores here have no hummus or tuna salad so I…

Prarie Rhonde, LA to Bon Weir, TX 10128 mi I find my map is gone in the morning – must have lost it yesterday. I’m on my own to Navasota. I talk to some folks in Mamou where I eat a greasy breakfast. The cajun accent is great. When I tell an old guy in…

Baton Rouge, LA to Prarie Rhonde, LA 10025 mi I feel much better, even though I have to start the day in my rain gear. I can now think back fondly on New Orleans, whereas yesterday I was too tired and depressed. I ride 190. The bridge over the big muddy is a bit narrow,…

New Orleans, LA to Baton Rouge, LA 9948 mi The bike is waiting for me in the fenced lot, safe and sound. I put her together and set off, but can’t resist stopping to say goodby to Laura. Of all the folks I’ve met I have an especially warm spot for her, I don’t know…

Pass Christian, MP to New Orleans, LA 9860 mi I wake up to a nice morning on a misty gulf. The road soon turns inland after crossing a bayou. In Waveland I eat at a Waffle House, where a salty lady in her 40’s cheers me on, “You go, boy!” She loves my project. The…

Ft. Gaines, AL to Pass Christian, MP 9800 mi The wind is really ripping in from the north when I leave. It’s all I can do to make it over the bridge from Dauphin Island brack to the mainland. There it settles down. It’s backwoods and glades through Bayou LeBatie to Grand Bay. There I…

Pensacola, FL to Ft. Gains, AL 9716 mi I decide my last hurrah will be breakfast at the Ramada, then I’ll start living on the cheap. I make good on my intentions in Pensacola, retrieving some fresh bagels I see someone throwing away. As I think about ways to save money, it occurs to me…

Argyle, FL to Pensacola, FL 9645 mi I reach DeFuniak Springs early, and during breakfast the locals tease me that I’m lucky to be alive after sleeping out around here. They’re friendly, down-south folks. At the post office I get some much-anticipated materials from Pete. As I read his letters I realize again how deep…