2003 September

A man chooses Fight over Flight, against the wishes of his new wife. When no one will stand up for him, his wife sacrifices her beliefs to save him. Kind a bummer theme, but done with great attention to detail and deft storytelling.

This sort of event resists documentation. There was a bachelor party. It was in Vegas. The imagination can probably take care of the rest. Ann picks me up on the strip in the morning, poorer but otherwise in pretty good shape.

Today we’re looking for a few sport climbs to occupy the morning before I head into town. We look at Cannibal Crag and Riding Hood wall, but they’re sunny, so we head into the park again to Calico Basin. On the hike in we have to climb around a slimy green pool. Jezze dog can’t make it, so she leaps into the pool, swims across, and tries to climb out the other side. She does this three times, finally making it with a bit of help from me tugging on the scruff of her neck.

This time we get on some of the blood red sandstone in the Black Corridor. It’s great there - shady, cool, with a couple of locals there to give us beta. We end up doing three routes: a 9, 9+, and 11. They tend to have one or two crux moves much harder than the rest. Once I figure out my move on the 11 I don’t quite have the strength to pull it, and I climb around. Ann and I both get our workout before leaving.

We make it to Red Rocks around 9 am, pay five bucks to get in (the first BLM fee I’ve paid), and start around the loop. We stop at all the turnouts and what routes are nearby in the guidebook. At the Sandstone Quarry there is a nice shady 5.9 route right in front Sicktion. We throw a toprope on it and take our first taste of sandstone. It’s the white stuff here, pretty smooth, with seams and folds for holds. I’m not sure what’s going to stick, but I get up without falling. Ann has to try one move a few times, but she gets it too. By that time the sun on us, and we move on.

At Icebox Canyon we decide to find a 5.8 crack route Ted recommended called Foldout. It’s a nice hike, and we take some lunch to eat when we reach the shade. There are some mosquitos there, but it feels great in the cool shady riverbed. The canyon above is appealing as well with its high, steep, mottled walls.

We make our way up to the route, a heavily huecoed, gaping crack. I feel good, ready to have at it. The start is like a ladder, the big huecos providing bountiful holds. As I go up it gets steeper, the huecos shrink, then disappear. The crux is a beautiful hand crack in a blank face. Ann follows with no problem, trying the top moves twice, but without hanging. I look over at the route to the left, Sensous Mortician (5.9). It looks like a runout roof move at the top. I’d love to try it on TR. I could lead a little traverse over to the anchor, but we’ve been leisurely today and are already short on light. We hike back feeling good.

After about three hours of driving we pull off on Halloran Springs road looking for a place to sleep. Amazingly, there’s a nice pullout there sheltered by a Tamarisk a ways off from the freeway. We sleep beneath more stars than sky, and wake up at sunrise.

I’m munching pizza whilst getting ready to drive to that jewel in the desert - Vegas. Actually, we’re going to Red Rocks State Park, then I’m signed up for my friend Steve’s bachelor party at the Monte Carlo. Ted might come along. Much potential and few plans. (Ann says Ted says he’s not coming. I hope he has some better opportunities to pursue…) Vive Las Vegas!

I’m surprised there aren’t more movies that use dogs to comment on human beings. It can work SO well. Like Ammores Perros managed to use people’s relationships with their dogs dramatically, this movie excels at making fun of people through their dogs. What surprised me is how interesting the little spats people have are, no matter how ridiculous they may be, and how much they can say about our culture at large.

Matt and Sophie Heason, the couple from the UK we met in Joshua Tree three weeks ago, drop by our house on their way to LAX and the end of their tour. Since we saw them they have been to the Grand Canyon, Zion, Valley of Fire, Death Valley, Bishop, and the Needles. We take them out for a session at Wagon Wheel, and are joined by Ted and Greg. Matt supplies a couple of surprises by doing “the V Notch” in about two moves, and “the spoogy mantle” by putting his foot up by his head and standing on it. When it gets dark we swing by the front for a beer, and Ann decides to work the leaning crack problem there in the dark. I give her the pad, humoring her, and she sets at it with determination. To the delight of everyone, after several falls, she nails it. We all cheer.

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This movie lends itself to short, quippy descriptions. It’s a rejection of Hollywood glamour. A battle of the bands between Chopin and Tammy Wynette. A cynical advertisement for emigration to Alaska. An honest look at 70’s fashion. It came out the year after Midnight Cowboy, and has a similar feel and outlook, but falls a little short. The writer/director seemed to be experimenting with really annoying characters. In small doses it’s pretty funny, but eventually flattens.