Ah, vacation. Sleep in as late as we like. For Ann and I that’s 7 am. Are we old yet? Even so, it still feels damn hot when we head out with heavy packs to check out some of the storied granite climbing here. The easier climbs at the PSOM slab lure us first, but…

I love having some climbing options close to town, even if they’re modest. The routes at Thomas creek always satisfy – enough that we still head for our favorites rather than try some of the new unknown routes we’ve never done. Cloudy skies keep us cool, and we return with time for a nap before…

We’re exhausted from moving ourselves and prepping the new Reno Collective location, and we feel the need for a play day. It starts off a little chilly, feeling like a fall day despite the nice patch of mountain pride blooming along the approach trail. Mike joins us with both his son and his dad, so…

Ann and I meet Wes in Truckee, hoping for cooler temperatures at Big Chief. It’s just about right, even climbing in the sun. The blooming bitterbrush smells like cinnamon and a breeze ruffles the ponderosas. Climbing season is definitely open! Dylan on community service Ann climbs 7-11 Burrito Wes climbs Slurpee Headache Routes: Community Service…

Most of our first trip to the Phantom Spires is spent thrashing through the steep underbrush between crags, exploring the area and climbing a few routes before we return to our campsite. It’s a great place, but surprisingly already pretty hot. Luckily there’s always a few routes in the shade. Phantom Spires Camp Phantom Spires…

Maybe not, but Ann and I go up to Big Chief with our friend Wes just in case. Ann climbing Wampum 5.7 Wes climbing at Big Chief Wes climbing at Big Chief Routes: Wampum 5.7, Route Stealers from Hell 5.10a, Sundance 5.10a, Half Baked 5.10a

Mike and his dad John propose an after work session at River Rock on the Truckee. We’re hoping the days are still long enough if we get going at 4pm. We arrive before 5 and Mike jumps straight onto Karl’s crack 5.10a (see dirty talk). After we follow that there’s still time for me to…

Ann and I finally made it up to the Big Chief crag for a little climbing. This place has a great out-of-the-way feel, and though I’ve read that the rock is basalt it feels very different from other basalt cliffs in the area, almost like it was made of molten aluminum dribbled into a great…

Wes joins Ann and I for an early work departure for Thomas creek crag, verifying that this is a viable workday climbing destination, and the climbing here is fun enough to bear repeated visits. Whoop! 2012-09-07 16.14.39 2012-09-07 16.15.34 2012-09-07 16.15.36 2012-09-07 17.01.54 Routes: Brits on Holaday 5.8, Spit 5.10c TR, Spat 5.10b TR