Ah, vacation. Sleep in as late as we like. For Ann and I that’s 7 am. Are we old yet? Even so, it still feels damn hot when we head out with heavy packs to check out some of the storied granite climbing here. The easier climbs at the PSOM slab lure us first, but they are in full sun and already HOT. Long routes seem out of the question, but there are a couple of short slab routes right at the foot of the formation that aren’t in our book. These offer both easy and quite hard slab variations, and I manage to over-strain on the second one trying to cling by my fingernails to cornflakes. This is not an auspicious beginning to our climbing weekend, but I’m confident that I’ll be fine after some rest.

Some residents recommend flying up these slabs.

Unidentified flying insect

We return to the road and find a shady spot for lunch, then climb up into Sheelite canyon proper. Here we get to watch someone finishing the infamous offwidth Pratt’s crack. We square off on Friendly Faces Everywhere 5.9, and after deciphering the tricky start I savor the sweet granite face climbing. The route has just received shade and feels like paradise.

My arms are feeling a little achy from the early slab straining, but after admiring the very interesting looking B-Gizzle 5.10c I decide to give it a go. I manage to figure out some of the interesting parts before being decisively rejected on the strenuous lieback section. My arms feel like I’ve been on the rack, and I’m sad Ann doesn’t get to try it. We pack up and I hope to return recovered tomorrow.

Pratt's gully

Pine creek camp