Thunderbolt Mountain to Lowland Campground 30 mi :: 1685 mi :: Sunny, warm I get a stiff hip from sleeping in a bumpy spot, but the cold, clear night under the stars is worth it. Looking at my maps, I realize that my enthusiastic excursion up Thunderbolt Peak will cost me a few extra miles,…

McDonald Pass to Thunderbolt Mountain 28 mi :: 1655 mi :: Sunny, warm I see a large variety of forest service and logging roads today. They take me through dense, new-growth woods, older open woods, clear cuts, and everything in between. The road quality varies from barely discernable and overgrown to well-graded with homes peeking…

Helena 0 mi :: 1627 mi :: Sunny, warm Helena treats us well. At the Crossroads Fitness Center we get a hiker special – pool, sauna, steam room, hot tub, and shower for $4 apiece. With a start like that, the rest of the can’t be bad. We do our laundry, have a good lunch…

Dana Spring to MacDonald Pass 25 mi :: 1627 mi :: Sunny, warm It’s a day of remote dirt roads for both Ann and me. When I see deep ruts and mudholes in one of the roads on Ann’s route, I leave her a cellphone message suggesting she find another way. At lunch, however, along…

Trout Creek to Dana Spring 26 mi :: 1602 mi :: Rainy morning, cool & breezy It’s cold and rainy when I wake up. Mercifully the rain stops, leaving a bright but cold morning. It feels like a preview of fall weather, with puffy clouds racing by and damp smells rising up from the forest…

Lewis & Clark Pass to Trout Creek 24 mi :: 1576 mi :: Sunny, warm Last night I wrote in a sunny meadow, thinking I might sleep out. Then I heard thunder behind me. On the other side of the ridge the sun was turning dark clouds a deep, violent orange. Those clouds were flashing…

Welcome Pass to Lewis & Clark Pass 30 mi :: 1552 mi :: Sunny, afternoon clouds I wake up early, determined to finish the stretch along the Dearborn River as quickly as possible. It seems like I walk fast, but the landmarks go by slowly. By the time I reach what I believe to be…

West Fork Sun River to Welcome Pass 24 mi :: 1522 mi :: Foggy, sunny afternoon The morning is foggy. It gives the river mysterious aire, and everything smells damp. Mushrooms are popping up all over the place. By the time I reach Benchmark and find the car, the sky is clear. A camper tells…

Spotted Bear River to West Fork Sun River 24 mi :: 1498 mi :: Rainy Morning rain rolls in again today. I try waiting it out while I eat breakfast, but it just comes down harder. The climb to Spotted Bear Pass is muddy with bushes taller than me overgrowing the trail. It’s like hiking…

Grizzly Park to Spotted Bear River 24 mi :: 1474 mi :: Cloudy, some sprinkles We wake up to a clear sky, but a cloud rolls in and sprinkles on us during breakfast. I have coffee when I camp with Ann, but I don’t try to make it on the trail otherwise. The cycles of…