Thu, 31 Jul 2008

Wheeler Peak Hike

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 08:57 pm

I meet Tom at 7 am again, but this time we drive north to Taos before heading into the mountains for one of Tom’s favorite loops over Wheeler Peak, New Mexico’s high point. It is indeed a hike packed with treats: wildflowers, cascading streams, mountain lakes, bighorn sheep, ridges, peaks, and expansive views. We figure the loop is about 23 miles with 5,500 feet of elevation gain.

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Maps and pictures also at Everytrail

Sun, 27 Jul 2008

Penitente Canyon Climbing

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 04:09 pm

It’s likely to get too hot to climb at Penitente this time of year, and we resolve not to sleep in too late to catch the cool morning. That translates to about 8:30 in practice. Dave, Lisa, and Dyson were waiting for us at the campsite last night, and Dre and Serena join us in the morning. Ann and I attempt to “warm up” on a crack across from the virgin wall that we can’t find in any guides, but has anchors and looks pretty easy. We almost can’t do the start. I spot Ann through many falls, then fall a few times myself before fighting through it. Thankfully, the rest of the climb is much easier. We spend the remainder of the day on some of the area’s prime sport routes.

Sport routes:

Not My Cross To Bear 5.11a
Lisa inspires us with a clean lead of this striking dihedral. I have to fight hard to make it up with only one fall on toprope. Everyone in the group puts up a similar fight, milking as much as possible out of a sweet toprope. Dave even gets up it after a dramatic back seizure that had him flopping in the dust.
Concupiscent Curds 5.10b
The only remaining route we can find that is shady. The holds are good but stressful on the fingers, and the moves feel balancy and dependent on finding more decent holds above. I do it twice, then we head back to camp for a lunchtime siesta.
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way 5.11c
The weenie way nearly proves too burly even for our ropeguns. Dre and Lisa both take a shot at the lead before Dre finally pulls through to the anchors. I get to take a swing on toprope. The crux section on shallow pockets at the top of a sloping edge throws me over and over again, but I finally find a workable move. The steep, sharp moves following wear me out a few more times, and I count it as a victory to reach the anchors at all.
Whipping Post 5.11a
Lisa flies up another hard, thin route, then tells Serena it’s 5.10c so she’ll try it. Serena does great after figuring out the low, pinchy crux, then comes to tell Dre and me about it. I nearly try the lead, thinking I may still have a 10c in me, but I’m grateful that I choose the toprope instead. I keep saying, “This is hard!” as I grip up one thin move after another. I don’t know how Ann kept quiet below. Finally Dre walks up and promptly pulls the rope. He earns my respect when he stays solid all the way up after a few tries at the crux. He worked a lot harder than I did on the Weenie Way. Finally Lisa reveals the real grade, and we all laugh (perhaps a little feebly).

Mount San Antonio Hike

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 02:41 pm

We’re sore and the day is looking hot, so instead of climbing we start our drive south and stop to check out Mount San Antonio, a solitary volcanic dome that has always piqued my curiosity. There are two summits of nearly equal height, and one of them is home to some radio towers. On our map a forest road leads to the towers. When we find the road, there is a gate across the road stating pretty clearly, “if you pass through this gate, you are trespassing and will be prosecuted”. Our map does show a small square of private property on the lower part of the road, so I attempt to skirt it while Ann stays behind to hunt flowers. Despite the bushwhacking it turns out to be a lovely hike. When I get down a local drives by, and tells me that it’s fine to hike the tower service road, and the real private roads have locked gates.

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Wed, 23 Jul 2008

Cochiti Mesa, Eagle Canyon Scout Trip

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 08:09 pm

When Ann gets off work we head to Cochiti Mesa to check out the climbing there. We find an old trail up the Ponderosa-filled canyon, reach the rocks, and spot bolts, but we can’t identify the climbs at all. After a lot scrambling and scraping through brush we find the last route on the cliff and work our way back. In the end we have time to do one route, Killer Bee 5.9+, the easiest and supposedly lowest quality route on the rock. It was fun enough that we look forward to returning to try more.

Killer Bee

Tue, 22 Jul 2008

Redondo Peak Loop Hike

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 09:03 pm

As promised, Tom meets me at 7 and takes me to the lush Winsor Creek trailhead in the Pecos valley, where we begin our 4,200-foot climb up to the Santa Fe ridge. Storms move in as we near it, but never hit us directly. The ridge walking is superb, as are the wildflowers and views of storms in the surrounding valleys. We meet the backpackers Tom is guiding and hike with them up Redondo Peak for another 750 feet of climbing, then descend through forest to Johnson Lake, where Tom and I head back for the trailhead to complete our loop.

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Mon, 21 Jul 2008

Lake Peak Loop Hike

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 07:27 pm

Ann prods me to go hiking to get me in a better state of mind this week. I still manage to start in a frustrated mood, having forgotten batteries for my GPS receiver, but that soon fades with the rhythm of a good hill climb up Raven’s Ridge. By the time I reach Desolation Peak I’m feeling great, and there I have a serendipitous encounter.

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Tom Hickey is atop Desolation Peak, and greets me enthusiastically. I follow along the rocky catwalk to Lake Peak, and begin to suspect that he knows his way around this country. I agree to follow him over to Penitente Peak. I soon discover that Tom is a walking trail database, and start interviewing him extensively. By the time we return to the trailhead, I’ve agreed to join him on a longer hike tomorrow.

Sun, 20 Jul 2008

Tres Piedras Climbing

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 12:43 pm

I can’t think of anything I’d rather do for my birthday weekend than explore a new climbing area! Tres Piedras (Three Rocks) is a tiny town in northern New Mexico, distinguished by three rock formations visible from afar. The largest is partially in Carson National Forest, and has some nice climbing on highly featured granite. I haven’t seen so many chickenheads since making the long, long drive into the Church Domes in the southern Sierra Nevada domelands. Camping in the quiet Ponderosa woods surrounding the rocks is sublime.

Our routes:

Dirty Diagonal 5.7
A wide, angling crack provides protection for the entertaining chickenhead climbing on the neighboring face. We do the whole 180 feet to the top and walk off.
Chickenheads 5.7
A high first bolt leads to diagonal cracks and, you guessed it, chickenheads! This climbing felt significantly steeper, more committing, and harder to protect than the previous route. This time we’re not sure the rope will reach the top, so we do a short second pitch.
Serpentine Crack 5.8
This crack weaves up the rock like a snake, big at the bottom and steadily narrowing towards the top. Again climbing is largely on face features, but a few fine crack moves come in handy. There are some steep, awkwardly leaning moves, but protection is good. We intend to go all the way up again, but an approaching storm convinces us to descend from the bolted anchor, which we do as the rain starts to fall.
Alien 5.9
My favorite route of the weekend. Nice crack climbing over bulgy, blocky terrain leads to an intimidating headwall, which yields good holds with the correct sequence. I produced a giant grin and a loud whoop after climbing it.

Fri, 18 Jul 2008

Doh!

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 01:17 pm

I’m pretty much settled in here in Santa Fe now, and my various projects are all underway. Too many projects, it felt like this week. Far from reveling in my freedom from obligatory work, I bit off too much of my own work and got myself even more stressed than I used to be! I dove into working exclusively in Linux on my laptop, then immediately tried to edit a video on it. That alone could drive a person mad. Add outdoorism, my WordPress Geo Mashup Plugin and related freelance work, a new website for one of Ann’s clients, some work on the camper, and I became kind of a mess. I got irritable and made dumb mistakes. And all done to myself! Next week, maybe I’ll be able to hang onto a little more inner peace from outdoor mojo.

Wed, 16 Jul 2008

WordPress Geo Mashup Release 1.1 Beta 3

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 11:05 am

Some significant overhauls have been made since the last beta release, which will make this upgrade a little more involved than usual. For details on this and documentation of new features, see the Beta Documentation. If that looks good, go for the download. Please report any issues you have soon – it’s time to get the current beta feature set into a stable release.

This release was supported by www.hidden-teesside.co.uk, publicenergy.co.uk, Vernal Creative, and A blog of my travels by Christopher Weddell. Thanks also to Joost Rooijmans and other users who have been helping out behind the scenes.

The change log:

  • Improved automatic infowindow opening for clicked post.
  • Added geotag icon option to map links.
  • Added terrain map type.
  • Added admin edit menu for saved locations.
  • Added support for KML attachments.
  • Changed map div to iframe.
  • Offer separate options for in-post maps.
  • Map color names to RGB values for Linux browsers.
  • Tried to improve queries around the date-line. Still not perfect, but not as important now that all posts will usually be loaded.
  • Fixed georss in atom feed.
  • Trim spaces from coordinates in post_link.
  • Fix map link not shown with lat or lon of zero.
  • Fixed the “Show Future Posts” setting, which was reversed.
  • Now using standard WordPress template tag parameter format for template tags, and Shortcode API format for content tags.
  • Handle a specific set of posts for contextual use.
  • Added a “show only future posts” option.
  • Use standard WordPress template tag arguments in show_on_map_link.
  • Converted remaining tags to use Shortcode API.
  • Using newer WP edit form API.
  • Removed compressed javascript option (not very useful).

Sun, 13 Jul 2008

White Rock Overlook Climbing

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 04:53 pm

We feel like climbing cracks today. There is some high cloud cover, which Ann thinks may keep it cool enough to climb at The Overlook in White Rock, another scenic area on the Rio Grande.


Our routes:

Headwall Crack Left 5.8
A nice handcrack, supplemented by lots of good face holds. That’s a theme here.
Headwall Crack Right 5.9
Similar to the previous route, but steeper, and overhung at the top. It feels like good practice for me to work on strenuous moves while placing gear.
Cholla Crack 5.9
Again a hand crack, but this time the overhang is at the bottom, while the top opens up and leans you over. I find I have to use a little more crack technique this time, and start to tire out but finish.
Cholla Wall 5.10a
Someone offers us a toprope on this, and it looks good. The face climbing here is a really nice combination of edges and pockets. We both get a good burn to finish us off.