2007 October

Near Bellvue, CO

No pictures from me today. While Kate and Mark seem to have a good day, Ann, Sean, and I are all a bit off our game. After warming up on the always good Churchill Rejects 5.9+, I watched Ann and Sean get hacked up on Battle Axe 5.9+, a cantankerous climb with a nice clipping stance at bolt 4 that will never work for shorter folks. Ann and Sean redeem themselves on Churchill Rejects, while I do my own hangdogging on Strictly Business 5.10c. Before I complain any more, I should note that the weather is made of pure bliss today, and it seems like there could be no better place on earth to be than The Palace. So when I leave my camera sitting on a rock somewhere at the end of the day, at least it’s in paradise, right?

This movie has aged pretty well – I think I liked it better this time than when I first watched it over a decade ago. A man with a warm heart and hands that injure himself and those he loves is such a good symbol. Tim Burton puts him to use for some social commentary and satire in the form of a slightly twisted fairy tale. Johnny Depp plays the part perfectly.

Our friend Pete invited us to this show at the Gothic Theatre in Denver in recognition of his birthday. I’d never listened to Pinback before this. Their dual vocals were the first thing I noticed. One of the two singers often sings in a punchy, staccato way while the other stretches each word out into a long wail. It’s a good effect. The music was generally interesting, but not the kind of thing that sticks in my head. I wouldn’t mind listening closely to a recording sometime. Watching the bassist (left above) was fun. He has giant arms and hands, and plays chords most of the time. Having played some bass, I know this takes strength. His right hand thumps and strums those fat strings like a funky rhythm guitar. Unfortunately I couldn’t hear the result very clearly most of the time, but I imagined him laying a foundation of thick mud for the others to make castles on top of.

A fun night with old friends.

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Disney manages to not pounce on every single cliché available in every scene, and even manages a fresh line or two. The characters espouse decent values, and no one is composed of 100% Pure Evil. Their machinery for tear extraction is as honed as ever. It’s enough progress that I didn’t regret watching, but I’m also not craving more anytime soon. If only Disney could poke a little fun at themselves here and there, movies like this could be worth the Cheese Factor 9. Granted, this is a kid’s movie, and I’d probably beg to see it again if I had to sit through a few others.

Certified Fresh

This is our fifth performance by Olga, and by far the smallest venue in our local Edna Rizley Griffin Concert Hall. Our only disappointment is that there are still some empty seats. We’d hoped Fort Collins could pack this small house for her, but I suppose this is a reality of being a modern classical performer.

I think this is the first time I’ve seen a single artist perform this many times. We know some things that we can expect from her, yet each performance is unique and involving. These experiences are enough to make Olga Kern feel like a significant part our lives. We’ve seen her at family events throughout our time living in Fort Collins. I think it’s been a significant time in her career also – she’s been traveling the world incessantly, getting established in what I’m sure is a very tough arena. I can’t help but think that she will ultimately succeed with her amazing efforts. I’m thankful that she’s returned to Colorado so many times, and especially thankful that she has come to Fort Collins.

We recognize her red stiletto heels as she takes the stage for her first piece. Between pieces, she looks tired, almost worryingly so. As soon as she sits at the keyboard, though, she seems to tap into some infinite source of energy, and is not stingy with it despite the empty seats. I think this mysterious ability may be Olga’s secret power. She revels in it. At times there is an almost sinister feeling that she has you in her grip, and there is nothing you can do about it. But she turns it into a gift to you, as she uses it to buckle you firmly into the music’s roller coaster car for a wild ride.

Three Sonatas by Domenico Scarlatti (K24, K9, K380). Departing from her usual Romantic fare, these pieces were composed much earlier on the harpsichord, in Bach’s time. They are technically remarkable for the period. Emotionally, they feel like a warmup, complex and steadily paced.

Sonata No. 3 in B minor, Op. 58 by Frédéric Chopin. I don’t think I’ve heard this live before. It’s exquisite.

Sonata No.2 in B-flat Minor Op. 36 by Sergei Rachmaninoff. Another Rachmaninoff tour de force. Seeing this live has put it firmly in place as my favorite Rachmaninoff piece after the 3rd piano concerto.

Hungarian Rhapsody No. 2 in C major – Adante, s. 242/2 by Franz Liszt An amazing piece to see performed, flashy bordering on psychotic at times, sometimes pure fun.

We get three encores, including Rachmaninoff’s Prelude in C# Minor and the standby Flight of the Bumblebee. It’s a supremely satisfying night.

Near East Albany, WY

One of Ann’s goals for this season was to lead Ed’s Crack, the classic Vedauwoo 5.7. To set ourselves up for an early start we camp near the Nautilus. The weather in the morning is almost unbelievably nice, and despite another party heading for Walt’s Wall, we have Ed’s to ourselves.

Ann starts strong on the tricky bottom section, steps over the gap and up the slab without hesitation. Mark and Kate show up and take a few pictures to help document the event. The offwidth overhang at the top of the second pitch is the crux, and this part at least makes Ann put up a fight. She fusses with protection, extending and unextending slings, then Z-clipping, all the while moving up and down the crux section. In the end she climbs it in true offwidth style, inch by inch, powered only by grunting and commitment. For my part, following the route is a relaxed and blissful way to finish our week off.

Near Lander, WY

A foggy morning inspires us to wander along one of the loop trails that start at the National Forest campground in Sinks Canyon. As the fog slowly lifts we’re treated to sights full of fall colors and morning calm.

Moose Gulch Loop Hike at EveryTrail

Near Lander, WY

At last a day dawns breathless and clear. Bob and Sandy join us as we head up to the Scud Area again to have our fill. It doesn’t take as long as we hope it might.

Girls’ Day Out 5.7 – Ann kicks us off on this nice long route with a good variety of edges, pockets, and flakes.

Boy, I Gotta Go 5.9 – Really enjoyable big moves with good rests along the way.

Stud Alert 5.10b – The gem of the wall includes a bouldery small roof, a few delicate slab moves, and big whopper roof to finish. Some of the fun:

Climb Like a Girl 5.9+ – I encourage Ann to try this, and she gives it her all, falling several times attempting the second clip before giving up. I feel bad when I get on it – the clips are hard. Not just the second one either. Nice edgy climbing though!

“You Go Girl 5.10c” – easy to the first bolt, overhanging and stemmy to the second. I make Ann nervous with a hangy second clip. The next crux moves take me several tries to work out a sequence. When I find a clip stance for bolt #3, I don’t think I can hang on. I move down and fall, then manage to finish on Boy I Gotta Go around the corner. I’m almost too pumped to finish that.

The good weather continues, but we’re done! I feel a little like a child playing in the big kids’ sandbox here, with hundreds of routes I can’t touch in all directions, but I would come back here, and Wild Iris too. With the Wind River Range looming in the west, the Wyoming wind and sun seemingly ever-present, and the pocketed limestone stretching out in long, long bands, the character of the place is strong and not to be denied.

Near Lander, WY

Again the morning is promising. We hike up to the SCUD area and manage to get a few routes in. I decide it’s too windy when I have to reach above me for my rope on rappel. Check out the rope in the picture. Routes:

Dog ‘n Dude 5.9+ – good pocket warmup, bigger holds as you get higher.

Banoffee 5.10a – small edges through the white scar on the slab. The white rock looks polished and slippy, making the crux moves feel less certain and more interesting.

Scud Alert 5.10b – short but very fun pocket pulling festival!

Scud Alert Right Variation 5.11a – toproped this but didn’t really enjoy it due to very high wind…