I never want to call it a day when I’m at Joshua Tree. The fatigue of climbing seems to take longer to set in there. I was jealous of this climber rappeling off of the Hauser Buttress while I was packing up to go – he got the last move that time. When the air…

Lots of things are blooming at Joshua Tree NP now and it’s pretty amazing just to walk around there. Ann & I warmed up at Quail Springs on the Poubelle (Trashcan Rock) on Tip Toe (5.7) and a few of the easy cracks there. We watch a little girl climb Tip Toe after we put…

The past few days of climbing have underlined for me the impact of mental space on climbing experience. First, I’ve been more relaxed and confident than ever, and it seems like instantly my climbing improved. How did I get there? I’ve read books that stress the importance of a positive internal dialogue, but I’m sure…

Nice weather at the Gorge this weekend! Not too hot, but warm enough for pleasant camping at the pinons. My friend Steve from Joshua Tree was up for leading some harder climbs, so I had the chance to sample some good stuff on TR, like Bone Up (10d), Hung Over (11b), and Be Prepared to…

It might not seem too Hobo-like at first consideration, but I have found rock climbing to be an ideal hobo activity. I can’t think of a better way to really appreciate the places where one travels. You get outside, often to the most picturesque spots, cast your cares aside and throw yourself into a demanding…

Johnnie and Patrick from Tehachapi were out again today. We did a quick problem in front, Johnnie effortlessly sailed up Walters crack. Then Greg took us to the back, straight to the problem on the little loaf that spanked me mercilessly twice before. You get a left foot high on an edge tucked under a…

Went with greg to the area north of the front where we were Sunday morning. Got that flake problem right off, then came very close on a slopey pull to the left of that. A couple east facing problems made me happy, especially one where you match hands on a knife-edge flake, get your toes…

Slept out again, this time managed to get up early. Did some of the same problems I hit with Rich on Friday so Ted could nail them. Rich got the funny dish problem this time, and pulled on that crazy sloper finger hold again. Me and Ted are nowhere close to getting that one. We…

Found Greg and Barry on the hilltop, playing on the Mohawk rock. I did the easier sidepull-right move to warm up, then tried to follow greg again on the left route. Couldn’t quite do it without some extra help standing on the right foot – this from a knobby right hand. Once up I can…