Matterhorn Peak North Arête

I’m posting this two months after the trip. Gabe and I return to the north face of Matterhorn peak after an aborted attempt two weeks earlier. This time we hike in and bivouac at the little tarn on the approach, one of my favorite spots. The next day we rise early, climb the North Arete 5.7, and hike out – still making for a worthy day of effort. I did this route back in 2002. Though my memory of it didn’t feel reliable, it proved accurate. It’s not the easiest route to find, but is forgiving of errors. We stayed close to the supertopo line this time, but I think the wandering route my partner and I took in 2002 might be more fun.

Moonrise over twin peaks ridge

Gabe's bivy

Matterhorn bivy

Sunrise sawtooth ridge


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