Gallows Edge Climbing

Sean is here! We’re eager to show him some picturesque desert climbing, so we take him to the Gallow’s Edge (friendlier than it sounds!), a cliff overlooking the Rio Grande outside of White Rock. It’s a clear day, just a little too hot in the sun. We find the climbing is fine if we can rest in the shade. Between climbs we wander around looking for The Pit, but our book’s bad directions get us nowhere. It doesn’t really matter though, because by the time we get back there is more shade at the Gallow’s Edge.

Gallow's Edge Approach

Our routes:

The Fire Swamp 5.8
Ann leads up nice edges and pockets to get us started.
Once Were Warriors 5.8
Several of the climbs here ascend slab to a steeper headwall with big holds. Fun!
Princess Buttercup 5.6
Easy, but run out to the anchors. Ann pushes through hesitation to finish it.
99 Red Balloons 5.8-
I don’t bother eliminating the arete to make this 5.9, but I think it would be more fun that way – especially after watching Ann do it.
Unknown ~5.9
I try a route just right of Princess Buttercup that isn’t in our book. It’s thinner than the other routes here, with a steep, blocky finish.
Pejo’s Route 5.7
With a roof at the bottom and a steep, exposed finish, I think this is my favorite route of the day.

There’s also Ann’s photos and Sean’s blog.

2 responses to “Gallows Edge Climbing”

  1. So, did you ever find the Pit? Ann & I spent half an hour walking all over the place and we couldn’t find it. It’s more ellusive than the sport wall at Brown’s Landing!!!

  2. No! I think the directions in the Jemez Book are bad. I made a huge circuit of the area to the east with no luck.

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