After a pleasant night in our tent at the Cheese Head Ranch, a spread north of Canyon City owned by a climber from Wisconsin who hosts an annual Memorial day climber gathering, we set out with our friends Lisa, Dave, and Dyson (now a year and half old!) for the Menses Prow area, hoping for shade. The shade is there, and most of the other Cheese Head visitors too. For the rest of the blissful morning the shady wall is covered with ropes and climbers.
Period Piece, 5.8. I lead this nice face climb to start the day, and Ann follows.
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine, 5.10c/d. I lead this after Lisa, taking a fall from the balancy crux area. A reminder to find the best direction to weight hand holds. I think the newer book must have downgraded this, Lisa was calling it 10a. Seemed just right for me. A couple of scrunched traversy moves, followed by a reachy one.
The B.O.S.S. Method, 5.8. Ann leads this, overcoming some anxiety and finishing nicely on the steep approach to the anchors. I lead it too, playing a little on some of the pocketed face between the two cracks.
Dumb Waiter, 5.9+. A fun lead, one of those routes that just makes you smile. An improbable-feeling bulge provides sinker pockets when you need them.
This Nuts For You, 5.10c. I give Joe a belay on this. It looks like a nasty second clip, so I TR it. After a fall from that second clip move, I start over, change my sequence, and make it up clean. Sharp handjams, but fun.