A little sport climbing sounds appealing, so we head up to the Riviera wall in Boulder Canyon. Despite dark clouds, we enjoy climbing Chouette, 5.6, and Splash, 5.7, on beautifully smooth, featured granite before the rain starts. We have to wait out half an hour of rain, then Ann surprises me by announcing she’s in the mood to lead something. She climbs the slightly awkward, well-bolted Topless Ettiquette, 5.8, apparently without drawing a tense breath. This is her first lead in well over a year, and much stiffer than her previous two. I’m inspired to lead Birthday Suit, 10a, which has one cranky, balancy move that throws me before I get it. I finish up on Devil’s Dihedral, 9+, a very clean, aesthetic line. We feel like working on a few more of the bolted routes here, but by this time the light is fading.
3 responses to “Ann leads a 5.8 in Boulder Canyon”
Awesome Ann! Way to go. Sounds like one heck of a vacation alright!!!
I went up to Granite Knob with Walter on Sunday. I’m learning the finer points of trad climbing…I did two 5.8 routes-which is the hardest I’ve done trad-wise.
So I guess we both were pushing limits this week!
I wonder if you did Nervous Tension? I always found that one worthy of the name. Ann and I toproped one, Rooster Tail I think, that I thought would make an exhilarating lead with the roof move at the top…
Yep, I lead Nervous Tension and Left to Die. It was an “onsight”-I had never toproped them, so I was a little nervous. The crux of NT is fun, but I got a flapper from the sharpish bomber hold.
I didn’t realize there was a problem until I was almost done with the climb. I felt this warm liquid on my palm and I looked down…oh blimey I thought! Good thing I brought belay gloves so it didn’t hurt too much to bring Walter up after.