Alabama Hills



It must be the fall climbing season, because seven people showed up at Casa Java at 7 am to go to Alabama Hills! Me, Ann, Ted, Roy Boswell, Bud Gates, Clare Hupp, and Charlie Raff headed north to clip some bolts. Ann & I started off on a 150-foot 5.8 on The Loaf called Ranger Ron. The length of this route is what makes it worthwhile. Just feels good to climb continuously that far. Next to that is Pangborn (10a), which Ted & I both led. Most of this route is almost too easy, but it has a couple of nice moves high up. Ted & I then walked to the Pillar of Thoth, which is more than cool enough to make up for the nasty approach. I followed Ted on The Hanged Man (10b), full of holds that feel ready to break, then The Magus (11a), a very cool piece of face. Ted finished it on the flake, which we agreed seemed easier than 11a. On TR I tried it direct and failed, raising no argument with the 11c rating the book gives that variation. Ann joined us and followed me on Rama Lama Ding Dong (10a), which I think is my favorite route at Bama so far. It just has lots of good moves, from smears to press-ups to a nice roof. To finish off the day Ann belayed me on 44D (10a), which would be a classic edging climb if it weren’t surrounded by easier climbing on both sides. On the way home Clare bought us iced drinks at the Espresso Parlour, which tasted REEEEEEEALLY good.

4 responses to “Alabama Hills”

  1. You make it sound like I DID Rama Lama. I fell off a few times on TR, then failed to make the roof. Maybe next time! It is a really fun climb… thanks for the flattery, though!

  2. i didn’t do the “un-cut” version of the The Magus, but only ‘cuz my knee was very inflamed.
    i would be VERY hesitant to call it 11c though… at least until i HAVE done it.
    my guess is that it goes at 10d/11a. but i won’t argue that until i have done it.

  3. clare.. what about the rattler? that was my favorite part.
    my least favorite part was running out of Old Milwaukee. heh.. actually, it was my fuggered knee.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.