Day 129

Lowesville, NC to Cowpens, SC
7872 mi

Another fine morning in nature’s midst. I remember to turn my clock back, and get started an hour earlier than usual! 73 is still a little busier than I’d like.

In Boger City I pass up a joint called Mutzie’s, then change my mind and go back. Everybody in there is full of questions about the trip. Accents are thick now – I don’t always understand the first time. Folks seem to like the rebellious aspect of it. To hell with work, I’m goin’ out an have some fun! Breakfast is greasy, but they make me an awesome chocolate shake.


Traffic is easier on 150, and I enjoy riding more. Fall colors are getting brighter. I have moments of such connection with the world around me that loud laughter and hollers just well up out of me.

Near Gaffrey, roads appear just where I need them. I’m soon on scenic 11. I call Camella to share my fine mood. I’m still warmed by the genuine excitement in her voice when she hears me. I think we still truly love each other.

Some rain does nothing to dampen my spirits. I ride on happily to Cowpens Battlefield National Park, where I partake of the exhibits, road tour, and picnic area. Somehow I know I’m in for it when I see a man sitting alone at the sheltered tables. I circle in and see that yes, he has a bible. I sit down. Aggressively he launches into a bit of small talk, rushes through it, and shoots, “Are you a Christian?” I explain a bit about what I am. He quickly labels me a Pantheist. Then he just starts blurting out quotes from the bible as if I’ll surely come around if he can only quote the whole damn thing to me in five minutes. I explain that he’s not speaking my language. A little more back and forth, and I get my question out – how am I, the truth seeker, to choose between you and the book under your arm, and the other equally convincing evangelists and the books under their arms? I just get more quotes from the bible. I realize this man has been talking to himself the whole time. He rises and exits, saying, “Well, I have to go now, I also sell insurance.”

After a while I sneak into the woods, find the perfect campsite, and behold Ahab musing, “Ahab beware of Ahab? Starbuck may have something there…”

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