Day 36

Towner, ND to New Rockford, ND
$20 :: BF, grocs, ice cream, campsite
104.8 mi :: 6.56 hr :: 27.5 mph :: 15.1 mph :: 2660 mi

Finally got my tailwinds today. Wind out of the NW, route heading E or S all day. I think that’s my highest average speed for a day. N: nope, day 30.

Talked sports with a couple old-timers at the caf� in Rugby. First time I’ve ever been able to do this – the subject being the Mikoti baseball game.

Also bought a condom in the bathroom at that caf�. This is more a license to fantasize than anything. I’ve found sexual fantasies are great way to spend some of the day’s riding time. I meet the lone female cyclist, etc, etc, but when the moment of truth arrives my mind knows that I’d use a condom and that I don’t really have one, and the fantasy loses its zip. So – problem solved.

A long stretch w/ no real towns. Outside a tiny, deserted-looking town called Esmond, found a shredded up, looted wallet by the road. The only things left in it were a hand-written ID card which the looters left, and an old Indian head nickel they didn’t find. May try to contact the guy, from Rugby, to find out more.

Had thought about stopping in Minnewaukan, but it was only 1 PM when I got there. It looked dying, moribund. Talked to a guy in the store who said that 6 years ago, Devil’s Lake was 8 miles away. Now it’s right at the edge of town. It’s rising, and no one knows why. Basements are flooding, people are buying flood insurance, moving houses, selling out. On the way out of town saw trees & telephone poles sticking up partway out of the water.

ON the advice of some westbound tourists I met w/ Noel in Montana, I decided to route around the section S of Devil’s Lake due to road construction. Headed due S to Cheyenne. There, on a whim, I ate a burger & some ice cream. Just like I remember, but my tastes have changed. May do serious time in the outhouse tonight.

Pulled into the New Rockford campsite, alas not free. Paid, feeling like ending the day, even though it’s not the greatest place. Started feeling lonely & manic again, wondering how to engage these feelings. Many options, but I know don’t want to pander to them. I find eating & absorbing the beauty of my surroundings helps. This response makes sense to me – passive contemplation of feelings I don’t want or pursue, action upon those I do.

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