Day 31

Harlem, MT to Hindsdale, MT
$11 :: BF, ice cream, museum
90.21 mi :: 6.52 hr :: 28.4 mph :: 13.1 mph :: 2171 mi

Sort of a lazy morning. After the usual BF of malt-o-meal & trail mix, saw Deb’s Diner on the edge of town. Restaurants have been rare, so I decided to have BF #2. One huge cheese omelet, potatoes, & toast . Later, get on the road stuffed, belching, at 9 AM. Can only make 10 mph at first, have headwinds all morning. (light ones). But, after an hour get into a nice, meditative riding mindset.

BF goes a long way. I use the restroom at a gas station in Malta, buy an ice cream more out of obligation than hunger. Pay $3 to visit the museum there too – worth it for ID of some local wildlife, genuine Indian clothing, & good old west outlaw exhibits.

Stopped to see the Sleeping Buffalo rock – think L & C mentioned it in the journals. Lots of carvings on it & a smaller boulder. Investigated Sleeping Buffalo resort 1 mile off route. Looked like a dying venture. The hot springs weren’t tempting, most pools & slides closed, no one around. Another obligatory ice cream.

Got worked up wondering about the way some motorists have waved – pointing & unfriendly. Maybe imagining it, but disturbed me for a while. Some genuinely friendly waves from local farmers helped.

Then met another couple touring. In their 40’s or 50’s, New Jersey to Seattle, on a schedule. No warnings or news of road ahead.

At Saco they had public picnic tables and restroom. Still not really hungry, but had a snack.

Pulled into Hindsdale, looking for the park to camp. A couple guys next to a running Harley give me directions, offer a beer. Johnny Rawhide helping Kevin get his Harley running after he broke down on the road. Kevin lives on the Ft. Peck reservation, blonde & blue-eyed but says he’s ¼ Indian. He warns me not to stop anywhere but Wolf Point on the reservation, and to watch for aggressive drivers. He says some of the Sioux & Minetarees(?) are still on the warpath. To get to Culbertson would be a 125-mile day. Johnny warns of hail, headwinds, and hills. People love to scare me. Otherwise we talk about good Montana people & Harley camaraderie.

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