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The Zone
The past few days of climbing have underlined for me the impact of mental space on climbing experience. First, I’ve been more relaxed and confident than ever, and it seems like instantly my climbing improved. How did I get there? I’ve read books that stress the importance of a positive internal dialogue, but I’m sure…
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Ann Fish
On my first big hobo adventure, I mailed postcards to Ann with no return address. On the second one, I stopped in Sante Fe to visit her in person. Later, we did some small hobo trips together in the Canyonlands, the Maroon Bells, the San Juans, and other worthy places. Now we are planning to…
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Owens River Gorge Weekend
Nice weather at the Gorge this weekend! Not too hot, but warm enough for pleasant camping at the pinons. My friend Steve from Joshua Tree was up for leading some harder climbs, so I had the chance to sample some good stuff on TR, like Bone Up (10d), Hung Over (11b), and Be Prepared to…
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Hobos climb rocks?
It might not seem too Hobo-like at first consideration, but I have found rock climbing to be an ideal hobo activity. I can’t think of a better way to really appreciate the places where one travels. You get outside, often to the most picturesque spots, cast your cares aside and throw yourself into a demanding…
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Wagon Wheel
Johnnie and Patrick from Tehachapi were out again today. We did a quick problem in front, Johnnie effortlessly sailed up Walters crack. Then Greg took us to the back, straight to the problem on the little loaf that spanked me mercilessly twice before. You get a left foot high on an edge tucked under a…
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Wagon Wheel
Went with greg to the area north of the front where we were Sunday morning. Got that flake problem right off, then came very close on a slopey pull to the left of that. A couple east facing problems made me happy, especially one where you match hands on a knife-edge flake, get your toes…
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Wagon Wheel
Slept out again, this time managed to get up early. Did some of the same problems I hit with Rich on Friday so Ted could nail them. Rich got the funny dish problem this time, and pulled on that crazy sloper finger hold again. Me and Ted are nowhere close to getting that one. We…
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Wagon Wheel
Found Greg and Barry on the hilltop, playing on the Mohawk rock. I did the easier sidepull-right move to warm up, then tried to follow greg again on the left route. Couldn’t quite do it without some extra help standing on the right foot – this from a knobby right hand. Once up I can…
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Wagon Wheel
113 degrees today, went to the wash, north of the road, for shade. One good shady wall with three problems kept Greg, Roy, Brian and I busy for a while. The hardest problem involved standing on a good right foot with only a right sidepull at bellybutton level, trying desperately to get the left foot…
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Buttermilks
Hit the Buttermilks at 0600, before the heat, with Colby, a PCT hiker and climber who wanted to see them. I got up about 6 problems total, two of them after many tries. Another two defeated me, one a beefy overhanging jug haul. My best victory was an arete with very thin feet, the first…