A bunch of us are hanging out in camp having some lunch, discussing what to do next. Ted recounts his battle on The Flake ( 5.8 ), and Jeff suggests we move the party to Ball Bearings (10a) in the Real Hidden Valley. He leads it on Brownie so the rest of us can TR…

Ann and I have a domestic conflict this morning. I’m antsy to get going to Echo Rock to climb Stichter Quits (5.7+), and she is into her cup of tea and crossword puzzle. I’m worried about limited shade, and she would be too except I didn’t mention it before, it’s morning, and what’s the point?…

Once again, Ted goes up The Flue to hang a TR on the unknown 11b. Once again a crowd gathers. Strangely, he isn’t able to do it again. Jeff, after an extra-fancy start, gets the blank face after a few tries. I go up as it’s getting dark, and I can’t do it again either.…

Watching Jeff and Karen climb Boussonier (5.7), just to the left of Papa Woolsey, I am intrigued and decide to lead it. It starts in kind of a box, with only thin features on the faces. Then the crack starts behind a prominent flake such that you get into it facing left, always feeling about…

I make a beer run during the heat of the day, then find Ann and Ted in Echo Cove. Ted has a toprope up on Big Moe (11b?) and is ecstatic about making it up. It has this hole with a slopey hold at the bottom and a rounded lip at the top, then maybe…

I keep thinking of this climb I want to do called Cast Up a Highway that is shady in the morning, but I’m feeling a little slow on the draw from the beer consumption last night. Ann is waiting for our email friend Karen to show up, and Ted wants to climb, so I suggest…

More hungry for rock than dinner, we head over to Chimney Rock to go up The Flue ( 5.8 ). I’ve backed off the start of this one on lead before, and I do it again now. The bottom 25 feet are not really protectable, on not very positive 5.8 moves. Watching Ted do it…

After a blissful lunch and siesta at the Hidden Valley Campground, I spot a nice looking face nearby in the shade. A flip through the guide reveals a well-protected 5.10b route called Papa Woolsey. Ted took one look at it and said, “so ya gonna lead it?” I felt like giving it a try. It…

Ted & I get up early, ready to get on some rock at Joshua Tree. I chew a piece of bread, pack up, and we head out. The main road is under construction, and we stop following the “follow me” truck, duck into a dirt pullout, and tromp off to get onto a popular route,…

Once again we had a good turnout of social climbers. Ann & me, Clare & Dennis, Walter, Randy, and Greg all popped up at Wagon Wheel in the front. Randy took a pretty good whack at the Trade Route right off, then Ann & I played on the crack on the other side. Ann took…