Mile 679. We stop for gas in Wells. I’m tempted by Lulu’s Espresso Shop across the street. Once inside, we see by the employee T-shirts that we’ve entered Lulu’s Espresso, Cafe, and Gentlemen’s Club. A short, squat, aging blond with a crew cut makes me the worst cappucino I’ve ever tasted. It would have been better with cottage cheese instead of milk.

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