Johnnie and Patrick from Tehachapi were out again today. We did a quick problem in front, Johnnie effortlessly sailed up Walters crack. Then Greg took us to the back, straight to the problem on the little loaf that spanked me mercilessly twice before. You get a left foot high on an edge tucked under a…

Went with greg to the area north of the front where we were Sunday morning. Got that flake problem right off, then came very close on a slopey pull to the left of that. A couple east facing problems made me happy, especially one where you match hands on a knife-edge flake, get your toes…

Slept out again, this time managed to get up early. Did some of the same problems I hit with Rich on Friday so Ted could nail them. Rich got the funny dish problem this time, and pulled on that crazy sloper finger hold again. Me and Ted are nowhere close to getting that one. We…

Found Greg and Barry on the hilltop, playing on the Mohawk rock. I did the easier sidepull-right move to warm up, then tried to follow greg again on the left route. Couldn’t quite do it without some extra help standing on the right foot – this from a knobby right hand. Once up I can…

113 degrees today, went to the wash, north of the road, for shade. One good shady wall with three problems kept Greg, Roy, Brian and I busy for a while. The hardest problem involved standing on a good right foot with only a right sidepull at bellybutton level, trying desperately to get the left foot…

Hit the Buttermilks at 0600, before the heat, with Colby, a PCT hiker and climber who wanted to see them. I got up about 6 problems total, two of them after many tries. Another two defeated me, one a beefy overhanging jug haul. My best victory was an arete with very thin feet, the first…