hobolog :: Dylan’s PCT Summary

If you’re curious, our lucky streak continued. After 4 miles we were picked up by Mike and Karen Higgins in one of their two red Mazda RX7′s. These people put us up, loaned us a car, shared their wine, invited us to help create wonderful feasts in the kitchen, gave us rides at 3:30 am, and so contributed immeasurably to the end of this trip and the beginning of the next one.

Our oath was signed at Hyatt Lake Resort. Pete & I, if we’re still among the living, will walk from California to Canada starting July 19th, 2019, my 46th birthday.

On this particular birthday Pete & I fulfilled an almost necessary dream – to see Johnny Cash, the Man in Black, play live. Ashley came up from Seiad Valley so we got to thank him again.

By the end of the summer I had reunited with my girlfriend Camella, and we were off to Chicago in a van full of our belongings to begin a new phase of life.

Near Ashland, OR

It doesn’t take long to reach the border. There are whoops and hollers, hugs, and photographs. Then we are walking again, just like before. Only now we’re headed for the road – to catch a ride.

Near Horse Creek, CA

We know this will be the last day before our purposes drastically change. We easily get lost in our own thoughts, linger in nice places, take notice of the daily rituals that are coming to an end. I’ve always admired Pete, but in the past months I’ve seen him grow, wrestle with his past, revel in joys, fight physical pain, risk his life, overcome fear, and give generously without expecting anything in return. I wonder what it will be like when we part ways.

Near Happy Camp, CA

After a huge breakfast that reveals to Pete the futility of Rick’s pancake challenge, we reluctantly and fondly say farewell to Seiad Valley. But soon we’re climbing hard, still in the spirit of the trail. For a short time we still enjoy the presence of trail moments, but we can feel the uncertain future encroaching with the Oregon border.

Near Seiad Valley, CA

The trail has brought to life a new knowlege in us: there are many wonderful people in this world. We are dirty, stinky, hairy people, but all along our journey people have helped us without cause and treated us kindly. Today a group of equestrian women make us sandwiches, and when we reach Seiad Valley we have the good fortune to make it to Ashley Regan’s Wildwood Lodge.

I can’t list all the incredible favors Ashley does for us, but we will always have a warm place for Seiad Valley due to him.

Near Orleans, CA

These unexpected mountains have us as excited as children. We hop from one side of the ridge to other, finding magical lakes and heartening views. We pass stark Marble Mountain, search for hidden springs, and finally come to rest on the long grass of Big Ridge. The wind sings us to sleep under a vast starry sky.

Near Somes Bar, CA

Graduation in the past, Pete dons his working threads and we head for the Marble Mountain Wilderness. At the top of a climb we meet a man who introduces himself as the UNIBONGER. Indeed he is, and it is quite a while before we are on the trail again – and almost out of water.

Suddenly the valley floor drops away into shadows, the trees thin out, and we are high on a mountainous ridge in the sweltering sun. It’s a strange, beautiful, and thirsty walk to Shelley Lake.

Near Forks of Salmon, CA

A momentous day arrives! Pete dons his flowing green cap and gown, which he wears for the rest of the day. We perform a simple ceremony, and walk 23 miles. Its hard to lend a sense of formality to such an unusual ceremony but I do my best. I feel proud of Pete and get caught up in the occasion. I wonder what my own graduation will be like.

Near Forks of Salmon, CA

We are sticking to the crest, traversing southwest, then west, then north along various ridges. As we walk around a bend we spook a bear cub, which runs right up a tree next to us. We stop cold, and the cub hangs a Uee, runs straight down the tree, and disappears.

Near Trinity Center, CA

It’s clear now that I am the only one who still feels the need to walk all day. Pete seems to really be winding down, wanting to sleep late, not prone to walk farther than is comfortable. I don’t know what is driving me. Maybe I just can’t imagine ever stopping. Maybe I’m in denial that the end is near. Pete graciously tolerates my impulses.