Thu, 09 Jul 2009

Day 9 – Crooks Creek to Green Mesa

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 11:55 am

Ann’s parents have found the trail crossing near Crooks Gap! They’ve strung up a tarp for shade, making a little oasis for us. A hot meal and cold drink top us off. I say goodbye to Ann, and Pete and I set off again.

Quickly the terrain changes as we climb into the Crooks Mountains. There are trees, granite outcrops, wild horses, and the ubiquitous cattle. We finish with some cross country through high sagebrush to Green Mesa, where we sleep under the sky, hoping that ticks are not nocturnal.

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Fri, 10 Jul 2009

Day 10 – Tick Mesa to Coin Camp Spring

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 02:22 pm

We encounter no ticks overnight, but in the morning they’re everywhere. We decide Green Mesa ought to be Tick Mesa.

Unexpectedly we encounter some people. Jeremy from Wheatland is out in his truck exploring Wyoming’s vast public lands. He says you can drive to Rawlins from here without hitting a fence. A rancher from Lander chats with us at an algae-filled spring, saying he talks to a lot of people on “the trail”. There were even two guys from Britain he couldn’t understand at all. Last we meet Daybreak, a southbounder who keeps us from blundering right past Wessel Spring.

We decide to do an alternate section on the Sweetwater River tomorrow, and start down Willow Creek at the end of the day. The mosquitoes here are bad enough to make us put up the tent.

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Sat, 11 Jul 2009

Day 11 – Coin Camp Spring to Rock Creek Ditch

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 02:36 pm

The country feels more wild as we descend Willow Creek, and the Sweetwater River canyon has a very remote feel. It’s a great change of scenery, but the uneven terrain on the banks is hard on Pete’s knee. At first we cross the river reluctantly, but soon do so whenever convenient. It’s usually only thigh deep, but fairly swift.

After lunch Pete’s knee freezes, and he has to spend ten minutes working it out before hoisting the pack. Luckily it loosens up, and we’re able to finish the river section and return to road travel through sagebrush. Our best tent option for the night is the bottom of an old ditch that looks like it hasn’t run in a long time.

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Sun, 12 Jul 2009

Day 12 – Rock Creek Ditch to South Pass City

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 03:09 pm

It’s not far to go into South Pass City today, but there are surprises. As we approach a rise suddenly two small antelope are running full steam toward us with no sign of stopping. By the we register it it’s too late, but the antelope start and swerve away at the last second. Still processing the event, it’s soon explained when an ATV clears the rise and the rider happily tells us to have a good morning.

There’s loud gunfire as we approach town, even a cannon shot. The mill is cranking, and an two baseball teams in antique uniforms face off. We’ve hit town during Gold Rush Days, it becomes evident, the big event of the year. We tour around a bit before finding Ann in the parking lot and heading off to their campsite.

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Mon, 13 Jul 2009

Day 13 – South Pass City to Station Creek

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 03:19 pm

Ann is with us again, and we meet San Gabriel in South Pass City, a northbounder headed for Lander to resupply. He hikes to the highway with us and swaps a few tales.

My breakfast is not sitting well, and gets worse through the day of navigating small backroads. By the end I only want to lie down. Ann and Pete take care of making camp in a BLM campground while I rest.

At the end of the day Ann stays back a while, and sees our first bear.

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Tue, 14 Jul 2009

Day 14 – Station Creek to Miller Lake

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 03:29 pm

I’m still feel a little sick in the morning, but able to hike. On our way out of camp a Moose crossed the road in front of us.

We meet an excited trail crew on their way out, with news about some almost-finished new CDT tread to Big Sandy. We consider trying it, but opt in the end to go over Temple Pass as planned.

It’s a long slog up Little Sandy Creek to the pass, but the rock formations on the canyon walls are incredible. We finally reach the pass at the end of the day, and find a way up with only one short snow crossing. At the top we can see into the Cirque of the Towers to Pangora Peak. Combined with the intense final climb it’s enough to stop the brain cold.

There are some easier snow crossings on the descent, and we call it a day at a nice flat spot just below Miller Lake. I’m exhausted and aching.

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Wed, 15 Jul 2009

Day 15 – Miller Lake to Washakie Creek

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 03:45 pm

We had concocted a plan where I would take off on my own into the Cirque of the Towers today, but since I’m still not feeling fully recovered from my illness I cancel it. It’s nice to stay with the group and see Ann’s parents at our Big Sandy resupply.

Swarms of mosquitoes have started to make regular appearances. We dig out the headnets and pray for wind. There are plenty of other people hiking with headnets on in this area – it feels like we’re some new race of mutants nodding to each other in collusion.

The resupply goes well, and we reach our goal for the day early. This is good, because it gives Ann and I time to realize that we’ve miscalculated the miles ahead of us. Instead of a few easy 16 mile days, we realize we need to keep doing 20 miles to make our schedule. It won’t be easy in this country.

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Thu, 16 Jul 2009

Day 16 – Washakie Creek to Lake Sequa Basin

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 03:24 pm

We hike for miles through the lake-dotted, glacially sculpted plateau of the western Wind River range. Long miles – each one seems to take us nearly an hour. Lots of small climbs and descents. It’s getting late by the time we reach North Fork Lake, but we press on toward Hat Pass. It’s 8 pm when we top out, feeling good. The area below is wet and the mosquitoes are the worst yet. We set up camp in a giant whining cloud.

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Fri, 17 Jul 2009

Day 17 – Lake Sequa Basin to Peak Lake

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 10:48 am

The question of the day is whether there will be too much snow on the far side of Shannon Pass to make it over and down the other side. If so, we’ll have at least three extra miles of rough terrain to cover to circumvent it, and probably more the way the miles have been going.

In the morning Ann is in the lead when she gets off the trail. Not knowing this, Pete and I pass her and continue over a rise. Probably about the same time we both figure out something is wrong and blow our whistles, but we’re out of range. We both shift quickly into emergency mode. Ann is the first to find the turn she missed, so she ventures a ways up the correct trail until she sees Pete, and soon we’re all reunited. Perhaps a good reminder of how serious it could be if our small group gets separated up here.

Lester Pass is our gateway to the north end of the range. From here we can see many jagged high peaks, including Fremont Peak. The rest of the day is spent slogging slowly through the jumbled terrain towards them, always wondering how the day will end. The snow cover increases at Jean Lake, and Upper Jean Lake is totally snowbound. By the time we can see the pass it’s almost 8 pm, but we decide to go for it. The pass is gentle, so we can make pretty good time to the other side, but Pete has to scout ahead twice to see if the descent is possible. His final report is that it is “mostly rocks”, and indeed we’re able to pick our way down to Peak Lake with minimal snow exposure. Vastly relieved, we enjoy a mosquito-free night at this high lake.

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Sat, 18 Jul 2009

Day 18 – Peak Lake to Green River Lakes

Filed under:  — cyberhobo at 11:17 am

Today the only pressure is to not be too late to the trailhead, where my Dad and Sarah are supposed to join Bob and Carol to greet us. The early day goes slowly as we have to pick our way slowly down some frozen snowfields, but once we’re on dirt trail again the hiking is simple the rest of the way. We follow the amazing green water down one of my favorite valleys past Old Squaretop. At the lower lake Pete crosses the river on a bridge, which is not the main route, but I figure it will take us more directly to the Green River Lakes campground. In the end this confuses everyone, and I do a fair amount of extra running around before the group is successfully united. Mosquitoes are still pretty bad down here, and we go about the challenge of spending some good time together without getting eaten alive.

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